Gsb-101 Gonset Original Manual For Hf Linear Amplifier (34.4% similar) No others will be received. Please pass all correspondence through. This manual is an original, not a copy. I am happy to answer your questions the best of my ability. Bids from bidders with excessive negative feedback will be canceled. It is 100% guaranteed to be as. Manual for Gonset GSB-101 Amplifier. Compliments of Mark Foltarz, KA4JVY, and Scott Whitlow. First version from Whitlow was completed and replaced by Foltarz version. Files: gsb101.djvu (314 KB) This is the BAMA archive. These manuals are available for download and free of charge.

1. Gonset Gsb 101 Manual Muscle Oil

Frequency rangeRX-range? TX-range 80-10 m HAM bands?Stability? Tuning steps? Filters?ReceiverModulations -Sensitivity? Receiver system?

Image rejection? Audio output?TransmitterModulationsAMFMCWSSBRF-Output 800 W PEPConnectionsAntenna-Impedance 50ΩElectricalPower requirements Mains (110-125 V AC) Current drain RX? TX?PhysicalDimensions (w×h×d)?Weight?Form factor Base Station Manufactured Between 195x and 196x in USA MPN GONSET-GSB-000101Other featuresMemories?Usage Amateur / Ham radio operators Features + options?

The power out on my GSB-100 after a few minutes warm-up is about 45-50 watts on 20m CW. Then after several minutes of further warm-up the power drops to around 35 watts. This trend applies pretty much on all bands (proportionate power reduction). Does anyone have any idea what the likely cause of this might be? The circuits I am focusing on are: Het Osc, VFO/Cathode Follower, 1st Mixer, 2nd Mixer, Driver, Final. Other circuits I am less familiar with are: 5mc Trap, 9mc osc. Whatever it is it seems to react to the rising temperatures of normal operation.Thanks in advance.Marc.

If you have checked the tubes, then it is time to check the voltages.On a dummy load make sure the same thing happens first, and that it is not something heating up in an antenna or feedline connection.Then get some alligator clips for the meter, paper and pencil, a big cold glass of tea and a few snacks.Shutdown, hook the meter to the high B+ with things set right. Fire it up and measure voltage key up and key down - record readings.Then key into the dummy load until the output starts to drop.Do not just put a brick on the key (the power transformer was not designed for that).Record readings.Shut down and unplug. Let the rig cool at least a few minutes.Move the meter to the next lower voltage source and repeat the procedure above.Then measure screen voltages (at the socket) and plate voltages (after decoupling) for each tube. By the time you finish a quart of tea and a bag of chips, you should know exactly where the voltage is dropping. If every voltage drops, check the transformer power input from the plug to the primary. If there is fixed bias, don't forget to check it.Good hunting.Pat W5THTUnhappy tubes blush while unhappy power FETs scatter plastic.

Thanks Rodger,I'll press the scope into action and see what I find. Right now I am testing it on a dummy load on 20 meters, and the power has remained constant. Also same results on the beam. What I have found is that when I put a cold 6AH6 1st mixer tube in it, the power is at its highest (about 48-50 watts). After a few minutes of warm-up the power drops to around 44-45 watts. I suspect the 6AH6's that I have are not at peak performance or perhaps a resistor is breaking down as the rig heats up. I need to go back and check voltages and see if anything jumps out as out of normal.I'll follow your suggestion and see what shows up.Thanks to both of you for your assistance.Marc.

I'm pretty lazy when it comes to trouble shooting.I'd start with the power supply.You have a single transformer and circuitry that provides four different voltages.600 vdc for the high plate275 vdc for the lower audio/driver/screen supplies-100 vdc for the bias150 vdc from the output of the VR regulator tube.If any of these are bad then trouble shooting anything else is a wast of time.You need this information before you even start to trouble shoot other circuits.I'd put this at the top of the list before I did anything else. IMHOLast edited by on Jul Fri 26, 2013 9:11 pm, edited 1 time in total. Well, I discovered an interesting fact about the unit and that is, unless all bands are oscillating, much of the alignment procedure is invalid.

I had thought I had a bad 15 meter crystal, but it seems after re-tuning of the trimmers, 15 is now alive (thanks Rodger). So, I went through a complete alignment procedure (well almost complete), and the power came up on all bands. Actually, the weakest is 20m with about 45-50 watts.

Even 10m has a solid 50 watts out. 80, 40 and 15 have between 60 and 70 watts out.

I have found that the tune-up is very critical, and a lot of checking and re-checking is necessary to get the full performance out of the transmitter.For now you can ignore the previous posts regarding sagging power due to heat, etc. Sorry to put you through all these gyrations. These old tanks are a fun challenge, but one can be lead astray by having only a little bit of knowledge.I'll keep you posted if there are any other 'head scratchers' in the offing.Marc. Marc,The hetrodyne oscillator coil and associated trimmers are probably the most critical adjustments for stable output power. Part C of alignment instructs you to adjust the alignment points for peak. You will find when adjusting these that the output will drop quickly on one side of peak and slowly on the other side of peak.

The correct adjustment is just past the peak on the side where the output drops slowly. This setting provides reliable oscillator starting and stable output level.It sounds like you are closing in on it so now you need to find a GSB-101 to go with it As soon as I finish up the Geloso transmitter currently on my bench (and a Dokorder 7140 reel to reel that my daughter spied for $5 at a garage sale) I have a couple of B&W 6100 transmitters that will be undergoing restoration and this will be the first time I have worked on this model.Rodger WQ9E. Rodger,I definitely noticed that characteristic about the tuning curves.

Did not know exactly where to set it, but it makes sense that it would be on the side with the gradual slope. These crystals can be really tricky, and I am sure that I will have it out of the cabinet again. The difference is: I will be armed with a little more knowledge the next time.Don't know about the GSB-101. Got zapped by the HV on this one due to carelessness. Scared the s.&t out of me. I might not get a second chance with the HV from a linear.The B&W sounds like a neat rig.

Gonset Gsb 101 Manual Muscle Oil

I know you are up to the task of restoring and repairing anything that should pop up. Keep us in the loop when work begins.Marc.

Don't know about the GSB-101. Got zapped by the HV on this one due to carelessness. Scared the s.&t out of me. I might not get a second chance with the HV from a linear.MarcMarc,You are on the right track by respecting the danger instead of becoming complacent about it, as some do, after suffering no real lasting harm from a shock.In some ways the danger is greater from lower voltage gear because people tend to be complacent around it. The real key is to practice proper safety behavior ALL of the time regardless of the possible voltage level.

Basic safety practice includes wearing proper insulating shoes, removing all jewelry, and keeping one hand in pocket while making measurements on live equipment. For higher voltage gear build a shorting stick with a discharge resistor and a shorting switch across the resistor and always hook this onto the HV supply output unless you are running live tests on the equipment. This allows you to safely discharge the HV supply filter caps and ensure that you won't be exposed to HV until you purposely remove the shorting stick. HV capacitors, especially oil types, hold a charge for a long time and bleeder resistors fail. Likewise even though a given circuit shouldn't have high voltage on it since your ARE troubleshooting equipment that isn't working perfectly a failure (like a leaky/shorted cap in a neutralizing circuit) can put HV where you would normally expect no or low voltage so DO NOT ever assume that HV isn't present where it shouldn't be in a powered up amplifier or high power transmitter.A common mistake is to leave equipment plugged in but turned off while moving it around on the bench or making resistance measurements. This leaves the repairer exposed to the 120 volt primary voltage which is generally exposed at several points (bypass caps, fuse holder, power switch, etc.).

The Mac's Service shop column which appeared for years in Radio and Television News describes in gruesome detail a service tech who picked up a plugged in radio chassis and wrapped his fingers around the exposed 120 volt tie points and was unable to let go. Before another person could pull the plug he had burns through two fingers down to the bone and the service shop was filled with the smell of burning flesh.The most difficult thing about safety practice is you will do all of the right things many times and you will find that almost all of the time you would have been fine without them BUT you continue the practice because of the one time that it will save your life. Most people will go through life without ever actually needing their seat belt to protect them but you won't know you needed it until it is too late so hopefully most of us wear them ALL of the time. I lost a good friend several years ago when he was thrown through the window of his water well service rig after he lost control on a road with low shoulders. The damage to the truck wasn't very bad and he would have survived probably with zero injuries had he been belted in instead of having his neck broken when he was thrown out. His father told me that his son always wore his belt but the prior week he had been ticketed for driving from one store to another in a shopping center parking lot without his belt on. Chris was angry about the ticket and his father thought he probably had the belt off in 'protest' of the ticket and thus an unfortunate accident turned into a family tragedy.Although professionally I am a business professor I have spent most of the last two decades working in enterprise risk management which motivates me to be very safety conscious.Rodger WQ9E.

UPDATE:Well, I have discovered a couple of new areas of interest while continuing to troubleshoot the low/diminishing power situation. After having activated the 15 meter crystal and re-aligning the rig, the power improved across the board. However, there still existed the slow decrease in power (about 15-20%). So, I began re-checking voltages and looking for suspect resistors and capacitors, as well as putting the best tubes in all the key positions. One area of concern was the grid bias on the 9mhz oscillator.

It was about -30v and required -10v. I removed a burnt 100k resistor and replaced it with a lower value that produced -15v. Power improved immensely. I now have 65 watts on 80-15 meters and about 55 watts on both 10 meter segments.However, I found that the power still drops off very slowly as the rig heats up. What I discovered is the bias to the 6DQ5 final was dropping during the heat-up process and caused a subsequent drop in output. A re-adjustment of the bias rheostat corrected the problem.

After the one adjustment, no further decreases in bias occurred.I am still searching for the cause of the decrease in final grid bias, but it appears to be limited to the final and no other circuits. It is refreshing to learn that after about an hour of warm-up, no further decreases are noted.

The rig has been running about three hours this morning, and the 20 meter power is steady at 63 watts. I'll look more closely at all resistors/capacitors in the grid circuit of the final.I have a newer 6DQ5 on order and will see what effect, if any, it will have on the diagnosis. I suspect power may increase slightly, but I don't think it will have any effect on the bias situation (the same symptoms occurred with a weaker 6DQ5 I had tried earlier).This has been a challenging but rewarding process and it is not over yet.

However, I now have a rig that develops nearly full power on all bands. And thanks to all who contributed. Know that your suggestions are taken seriously. Sometimes these problems are quite unique and no one troubleshooting technique will necessarily lead to a solution.MarcWednesday PM: I may have found the problem with the sagging power. I said that I thought I had it narrowed down to the final grid circuit. Well, the only thing between the grid and the -100v bias supply is a 1k resistor and a.01 bypass capacitor.

When removing the resistor I noticed it just about fell out. That was good news. I replaced the resistor and the bypass capacitor while I was at it, and now I am testing. 65 watts on 20 meters for 30 minutes and NO sagging yet. I'll watch it for a couple hours before I down a celebratory 807!MarcLast edited by on Aug Thu 01, 2013 2:19 am, edited 1 time in total. Marc,Good find!

It is possible a prior tube problem cooked the resistor.If you notice it changing again try a different tube. Gas and/or secondary emission will both cause a shift in bias.The GSB-100 really is a nice transmitter and the VFO is quite stable after a short warmup. I am surprised no other manufacturer adopted the idea of a notch filter to improve carrier suppression. With my GSB-100 I don't find the need to adjust carrier balance several times during warmup like I do with my CE 10 and 20 transmitters.Rodger WQ9E.

Rodger,I'm still observing, but everything pointed to the grid circuit of the final. So far she puts out 65 watts on all but 10 meters (55 watts). I'm starting to feel pretty good about the rig. Its ssb audio has been very good, and with decent propagation I have worked around the world on less than 60 watts. I won't know what to do with all this power. LOLYou are right about the stability of the vfo.

My HX-50 walks down the street and back before it finally decides to settle down. This rig is pretty darn solid from shortly after turn-on. Oh, I do have another 6DQ5 coming soon that should be operationally like new. Not expecting much improvement, though.Once again, with the help of you experts, I have resurrected an old clunker into a fine classic transmitter.

It's a good feeling. No room for anything new now. I'll just play with these two BA's for while.Regards,MarcLATEST DISCOVERY: Last night I really thought I had found the problem.

And all the corrective measures I took were necessary and proved very fruitful. However, this morning I did notice that the power diminished from 65w to about 60w beginning about two hours into the observation. So, I took Rodger's suggestion and tried another final tube. Even though the tube has less output than the original one, its output has remained constant without a hint of loss. It would appear that some internal part of the original 6DQ5 is breaking down after a couple hours. Whether this is caused from gas or leakage, I know not.

I am expecting a brand new 6DQ5 in the mail today in what should be the final acid test.Hopefully, this will be my final update.Marc. LATEST DISCOVERY: Last night I really thought I had found the problem. And all the corrective measures I took were necessary and proved very fruitful. However, this morning I did notice that the power diminished from 65w to about 60w beginning about two hours into the observation. So, I took Rodger's suggestion and tried another final tube.

Even though the tube has less output than the original one, its output has remained constant without a hint of loss. It would appear that some internal part of the original 6DQ5 is breaking down after a couple hours. Whether this is caused from gas or leakage, I know not. I am expecting a brand new 6DQ5 in the mail today in what should be the final acid test.Peter,Perhaps this is what you were hinting at when you asked about the grid current.All of the contributions were very helpful, and hopefully, this will be my final update.Marc. The original 6DQ5 may have suffered an oveload during an extended tune-up.In the TV trade it was discovered that certain horizontal tube types suffered from 'grid poisioning' the phenomina occurs because of an initial overload tearing off particles of cathode material and depositing them on the grid.

Thus the grid under conditions of heating becomes an emitter. The response from the tube manufacturer was to change the metals that the grid was made from to resist the sticking of the emitter materal. I do not know if there were changes in the formulation of the cathode coating. Susequently, the revised tubes made their way to the TV repair trade. Also, I do not know if there was a modification of the identification number such a an 'A' 'B' etc. Added as it applies to the 6DQ5.Best advise would be replace with one known to have the latested or last produced date code.Consult someone from the Tube Collectors Associan where there is access to a tremendous amount of tube history.Best!ChasWA1JFD(owner of GSB-100 w/bad bandswitch.)Smith's Ale Gives Strength, Smith Bros.

Brewers, New Bedford MA.